Monday, December 26, 2011

How To Winterize Your Boat

!±8± How To Winterize Your Boat

Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its engine by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.

The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat's fuel tank is full - leave just a little room for expansion - and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn't full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.

Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.

Protecting Your Engine

Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil while it's warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.

When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray "fogging oil" inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.

Replace the engine's old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.

Outboards

Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.

If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the storage period and check the water level from time to time.

It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement.

Propeller

This is also a good time to check your boat's propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterizing process.

Clean, Clean, Clean

Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.

To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat.

Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they'll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze.

Empty The Head

Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner's manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won't damage your system.

Water Tanks

Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.

Put it on Blocks

If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.

If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you'll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.


How To Winterize Your Boat

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Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Water Skiing - The History Of The Sport

!±8± Water Skiing - The History Of The Sport

Water skiing began in 1922 when eighteen-year-old Ralph Samuelson of Minnesota declared that if you could ski on snow you could ski on water. He first tested this theory on Lake Pepin in Lake City, Minnesota, towed by his brother Ben. The two brothers spent several days experimenting before July 2, 1922 when Ralph discovered that leaning back with the ski tips in the air lead to successful waterskiing. The first skis the brothers used were made form barrel staves, then they progressed to snow skis before Ralph fashioned the first pair of water dedicated skis from some lumbar he purchased and shaped. These skis were bound to the feet with leather straps and a long window sash was used as a tow rope.

Ralph continued to experiment with and perfect his waterskiing technique and equipment and on July 8, 1925 during a Lake Pepin exhibition he performed the first ever water ski jump using a 4' x 16' greased ramp. Ralph Samuelson never patented any of his waterskiing equipment; that was first done by Fred Waller in 1925 who patented his Dolphin Akwa-Skees and in 1940 Jack Andresen invented the first trick ski, a shorter finless version of the standard ski.

As a result of Ralph Samuelson's work and the development of equipment, waterskiing soon became an exhibition sport in the late 1920's and early 1930's. The first competition was staged in 1939 when the American Water ski Association was formed and held the National Water Ski Championships at Jones Beach on Long Island, New York. Since then recreational water skiing has grown massively in popularity with recent surveys showing over 11 million water skiers in the US alone. This is despite the high costs of the equipment, boat, tow vehicle, fuel and fees associated with the sport which tends to make it a pastime for wealthier families.

As the sport progressed more competitions were held and events were split into three disciplines, slalom, trick and jump. Competitive water skiers compete against their own gender and within their own age group, some competitive water skiers are in their 80s so its never to late to take part!

Slalom Skiing

Originally the slalom course was just a row of buoys in a straight line which the skier had to ski in and out of, but the course has been modified over the years. Today the slalom course is a series of buoys set in a straight path 8 feet apart and a series of 6 pre arranged buoys which make the entrance and exit gates. The boat travels down the middle of the buoys at a specified speed and the skier zig-zags behind the boat to get around the buoys. The boat driver needs to be skilled too; it is a challenge to keep a straight path while keeping in a ½ mile an hour tolerance of the specified speed. The maximum competition boat speed is 36mph which doesn't sound fast but skiers hit speeds of up to 70 mph as they cross the wake between buoys then slow to around 20mph as they round the buoys, and they do this 6 times in 17 seconds, this sudden change in speed give quite an adrenalin rush!

When a skier completes the course successfully at the maximum boat speed they make it a little more challenging by shortening the rope length. The top slalom skiers use rope 32' long and the buoys are set 35 feet from the centre of the boat path so the skier has to lean and stretch to make the buoy.

Trick Skiing

This originally meant removing a ski and holding it over the head, but nowadays it's a little different. Today trick skiers do 'toe hold' tricks where they hold the rope by one of their feet using a special harness. They do step-overs, jumps and flips and points are awarded based on the degree of difficulty. The skier has 20 seconds to perform as many tricks as possible and is allowed two trick runs.

Jumps

Jump is the most exciting event; originally jump ramps had a surface of wooden rollers! Today jump ramp height ranges from 2 ½ to 5 ½ feet and maximum boat speed is 36mph. The world record jump is over 200 feet and in the derivative event 'ski flying' which has a longer ramp and faster boat speed, skiers are nearing the 300 feet mark. The freestyle jump event is also exciting to watch with flips, helicopters and various other amazing tricks.


Water Skiing - The History Of The Sport

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Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Part 10 - Moby Dick by Herman Melville (Chs 124-135)

Part 10. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Stewart Wills. Playlist for Moby Dick by Herman Melville: www.youtube.com

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Friday, November 25, 2011

Part 08 - Moby Dick by Herman Melville (Chs 089-104)

Part 8. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Stewart Wills. Playlist for Moby Dick by Herman Melville: www.youtube.com

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Sunday, October 16, 2011

Blitz 12040 3/4" Metal Screw On Spout

!±8± Blitz 12040 3/4" Metal Screw On Spout

Brand : Blitz | Rate : | Price : $13.99
Post Date : Oct 16, 2011 15:51:04 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


  • Fits original 5 gal metal can
  • Heavy gauge flexible metal
  • Designed for rugged service
  • Rubber gasket seals can when pouring
  • 3/4"

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Blitz 12040 3/4" Metal Screw On Spout

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Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Eagle U2-51-S Type II Gas Safety Can 5-Gallon Metal Red With Flex Spout

!±8± Eagle U2-51-S Type II Gas Safety Can 5-Gallon Metal Red With Flex Spout

Brand : Eagle | Rate : | Price : $68.42
Post Date : Sep 21, 2011 04:54:03 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • Eagle U2-51-S gas safety can is made with no top or side seam and a double interlock no-weld bottom seam
  • Made of lead-free, hot-dipped 24-gauge, deep-drawn galvanized steel with baked-on high gloss powder coat finish
  • The filler spout and flame arrestors in both openings are non-sparking brass designed for flashback protection
  • Features two openings: a pressure-relief spring closing lid for filling, and an actuated pour valve with a flexible metal spout for safer controlled dispensing
  • Made in the USA; 100-percent leak tested
  • 100% leak tested
  • Lead-free, hot-dipped 24-gauge, deep-drawn galvanized steel construction with a baked-on high gloss powder coat finish with Bright, silk-screened trilingual warning label
  • Meet OSHA and NFPA Code 30 requirements, FM, UL & ULC listed
  • Spring closing lid with neoprene gasket vents at 5 psi internal pressure and Flame arrester screens in filler and dispensing spout
  • The only deep drawn construction safety can made with no top or side seam and a double interlock no-weld bottom seam

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Eagle U2-51-S Type II Gas Safety Can 5-Gallon Metal Red With Flex Spout

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Saturday, September 17, 2011

Type ll Safety Cans - 2gal 12" flex spout 1"odtype 2 safety can

!±8± Type ll Safety Cans - 2gal 12" flex spout 1"odtype 2 safety can


Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Sep 17, 2011 22:30:06
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

258-U2-26-S This item features: -Material: Galvanized Steel. -Usage: Chemicals. -Resistance: Flame Retardant. -Rating: Type II. -Includes: 7/8 in. Flex Metal Spout. -Type: Flammable Storage Can. -Price is for 1 Can. Testing and approvals: -FM. -UL. -ULC. Model Code  Model Description AACapacity Vol.:2 gal, Dia.:11 1/4 in, Height:9 1/2 in, Color:Red, Wt.:8 lb ABCapacity Vol.:5 gal, Dia.:12 1/2 in, Height:13 1/2 in, Color:Red, Wt.:10 lb ACCapacity Vol.:5 gal, Dia.:12 1/2 in, Height:13 1/2 in, Color:Yellow, Wt.:10 lb Unit Sold is in measure of 1 Can

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Thursday, September 15, 2011

Blitz 11010 5 Gallon Steel Gas Can

!±8± Blitz 11010 5 Gallon Steel Gas Can

Brand : Blitz | Rate : | Price : $44.99
Post Date : Sep 15, 2011 03:00:29 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


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Sunday, September 11, 2011

CARB Approved 5 Gallon Type II Gas Can (red)

!±8±CARB Approved 5 Gallon Type II Gas Can (red)

Brand : Eagle
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Sep 11, 2011 21:45:39
Usually ships in 6-10 business days



Metal diesel cans that meet OSHA requirements are necessary at all construction sites. In some cases this may affect a tree care or landscaping jobsite. These Type II cans from Eagle are made of galvanized steel, feature two openings, one with a pressure-relief spring closing lid for filling and one with an actuated pour valve and 5/8" flexible metal spout for controlled dispensing. Non-sparking brass flame arresters at both openings for flashback protection. NOTE: Legal in all 50 states. Meets OSHA Requirements.

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Thursday, September 8, 2011

Eagle 1215 5-Gallon Metal DOT Transport Gas Can Red With 1-Inch Spout

!±8±Eagle 1215 5-Gallon Metal DOT Transport Gas Can Red With 1-Inch Spout

Brand : Eagle
Rate :
Price : $173.73
Post Date : Sep 08, 2011 18:00:33
Usually ships in 24 hours



1215 Spout: 7/8 " The Type II DOT Transport safety helps reduce the danger of explosion while dispensing flammable liquids through a flexible metal spout. It reduces the danger by having double-walled brass flame arrestors in both the filler and pour spout. Heavy duty roll bars protect both spouts and a thumb screw mechanism assures that the filler opening stays closed while being transported. Features: - 5 Gallon Capacity - Double walled brass frame arrestors - Meets code 30 requirements (OSHA and NFPA) - Heavy duty roll bars - Available in red

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Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Eagle 1215-SX5 5-Gallon Metal DOT Transport Gas Can Red With 5/8-Inch Spout

!±8± Eagle 1215-SX5 5-Gallon Metal DOT Transport Gas Can Red With 5/8-Inch Spout

Brand : Eagle | Rate : | Price : $221.29
Post Date : Sep 06, 2011 12:54:04 | Usually ships in 24 hours


1215-SX5 Spout: 5/8" The Type II DOT Transport safety helps reduce the danger of explosion while dispensing flammable liquids through a flexible metal spout. It reduces the danger by having double-walled brass flame arrestors in both the filler and pour spout. Heavy duty roll bars protect both spouts and a thumb screw mechanism assures that the filler opening stays closed while being transported. Features: - 5 Gallon Capacity - Double walled brass frame arrestors - Meets code 30 requirements (OSHA and NFPA) - Heavy duty roll bars - Available in red

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Sunday, September 4, 2011

Eagle U226SX5 2 gal. Eagle Type II Galvanized Steel Safety Can - Red

!±8±Eagle U226SX5 2 gal. Eagle Type II Galvanized Steel Safety Can - Red

Brand : Eagle
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Sep 04, 2011 06:34:17
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



Metal diesel cans that meet OSHA requirements are necessary at all construction sites. In some cases this may affect a tree care or landscaping jobsite. These Type II cans from Eagle are made of galvanized steel, feature two openings, one with a pressure-relief spring closing lid for filling and one with an actuated pour valve and 5/8" flexible metal spout for controlled dispensing. Non-sparking brass flame arresters at both openings for flashback protection. NOTE: Legal in all 50 states. Meets OSHA Requirements.

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Wednesday, August 31, 2011

How to properly store fuel for emergency generator

!±8± How to properly store fuel for emergency generator

It goes without saying that an emergency generator without fuel is like a light bulb without electricity. If the bulb does not have the power does not produce any light. If the generator has no fuel, produce no electricity. I know this is elementary. However, there is a serious problem when a person is in front of an ice storm or power outage, and are almost out of gas. The situation becomes critical when there is no access to service stations. Nowwhat? This is exactly what people do in real time.

During the ice storm of the eastern part of the nation in 2009 covered a number of people with emergency generators running out of petrol. The main reason, why? They did not know the rule for the storage of fuel.

To be clear, this is a general rule, guideline or rule that we use to cover most scenarios. The emergency generator is a standard five-liter capacity. Based on these numbers, we do some 'math, which I hateway. The average consumption for a generator of moves at 0.67 liters per hour. This means that a 5-gallon tank, you are going to do a little more than five hours of electricity.

The question is: "How many hours do you work the program, your first need to run emergency power to fill?" To answer this question factor variables such as bad weather, went into closed gas stations, refueling stations, roads, building vehicles because of the weather, etc.etc. There is no way we can say how long last of these variables, or how long it will affect your community. What we can do is look back and find a general rule.

That said, we find that a store is 32 liters of gas, in addition to 5 liters already in your emergency generator, a great rule of thumb to follow. This provides a total area of ​​approximately 56 hours of power. Incidents like the 2009 ice storm,Hurricane Katrina taught the blackout in Florida and New York are a valuable lesson: Be prepared! Assuming that only absolutely necessary to run the equipment and devices that are to save fuel consumption you can use a little 'better.

The next problem is to be treated, to use the type of container of gasoline. There are all types of gas canisters on the market. Inexpensive. Those in the medium term and expensive. They come in different types of materials such as metal, plastic andPolyethylene. The problem here is threefold: (1) The size of the gas can, and remember that we are talking more than 32 gallons. (2) E 'ability to waive certain gasoline. You do not need the usual type of gas can you have with the nozzle or injected has known issues to fight. (3) and 'safe to store gasoline in any element, hot or cold?

Among these problems are taken into account, there are a number of brands that can be customized to your needs. Some examples, Justrite, are Flo N Go 'DuraMax and Eagle, and there are a few others. These vendors provide reliable products that are perfect for your emergency generator very well. The smart thing to store fuel for emergencies is this: keep recycling the gas, unless you have failures. This means that the gas in storage for other equipment for gardening and then fills the tank with fresh gas.


How to properly store fuel for emergency generator

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